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Jan 09 2009

Wooden Shipbuilding in the Netherlands

Published by justindemetri under ships, trips Edit This

With the bitter winter that the Netherlands is experiencing, I’m not sure just how many maritime museums and ships I will see, but  I do have plans to see a few. The easiest and first one on my list is to get aboard the Amsterdam, a museum ship replica of an East Indiaman that is docked close to the city’s Centraal Station. What sucks is that the National Maritime Museum, one of the best in the world, will be closed for renovation until at least 2010. Anyone got any contacts to get me a sneak peak tour?

Close to Amsterdam in the new province of Flevoland is the Batavia Werf, a shipbuilding musuem that has already built the replica VOC ship Batavia. They are about halfway through the construction of the De 7 Provinciën, a 17th century ship-of-the-line and I’m really looking forward to checking out shipbuilding on this scale.

For my daytrip to Rotterdam that I have planned there is another ship being built in the section known as Delfthaven - where some of the Pilgrims departed on their way to the New World. There the 18th century ship-of-the-line De Delft, is currently being built year-round by a group of about 200 volunteers. Besides getting to take a look at traditional shipbuilding, I will also hopefully get some great view of Rotterdam’s busy harbor - The biggest in Europe and I believe second only to Shanghai.

These are the biggest projects I’m going to visit, but hopefully I’ll have time and money to see more Dutch maritime heritage while I’m there…

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Jan 05 2009

Gloucester Trawler Sinks - Two Men Lost

Published by justindemetri under ships Edit This

The Gloucester fishing fleet has been greeted by tragedy this new year as the dragger Patriot sank in Middle Bank over the weekend with the loss of her two man crew. Anyone that grew up in a fishing family, or had loved ones involved in the industry dreaded to get that phone call from the Coast Guard saying the boat went down or is missing. As a little kid, with Dad and Grandpa Scola working  on a near 60-year old wooden boat, that feeling of unease that comes with winter fishing was not lost on me. Nor is it lost on anyone else that has to hold their breath from a day or two to over a week, while the family is out fishing.

And so now Matt Russo and his father-in-law John Orlando become the most recent names added to the men Out O’Gloucester lost at sea. They are the first since 2001 and will also leave wives and children behind -But that is the price the sea demands of Gloucester for doing business with her, a pact made centuries ago sanctified by the blood of her fishermen. And when the sea takes Gloucestermen, it gives back to the city a grim gift of widows and orphans. Too many to count over the years I’m sure…

More than five thousand souls so far and although the sea does not demand so many lives from Gloucester anymore, this latest tragedy shows that our city and its fishermen are still bound by this ancient pact. I didn’t know the men lost personaly, but like most of Italian Gloucester, I know the family -My deepest sympathies to all of you.

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Dec 11 2008

On Gloucester Harbor: It’s Obvious Where I Stand

Published by justindemetri under ships Edit This

 

I grew up down the Fort, my family still lives there, Christmas is second to Fiesta - need I say more?

The hotel is a mistake and just the latest example of the “nobody at the wheel” mentality of Gloucester. Everything is a knee-jerk reaction that comes back to bite us in the ass later on. The ridiculous curbs on Main Street, the rearranging of traffic lights, the sewer system fiascos both past and present and now the old boys network of certain banks and businessmen that shall remain nameless have set their sights on one of the last enclaves of real Gloucester waterfront.

Without thought to the people living there, certain names in this area can get away with anything - just ask me about the brewery…

The hotel will be placed on a strip of land that today is dedicated to fishing - what will the busloads of tourists think of that smell? And then there is Fiesta, unless this is a scheme to move Fiesta too - the tourists love it, but how will they get to the hotel? With the current economic crisis, will there be any tourists at all?

Everyone knows where the hotel should go - on that big empty lot by the Building Center. Yet another debacle caused by ineptitude in city government. Don’t believe that Gloucester and the Fort does not want to change, we just believe these changes have to be done smartly.

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Dec 06 2008

Holiday Sale at the Essex Shipbuilding Museum

Published by justindemetri under ships Edit This

Our Special Holiday Sale Benefits You and Supports the

Essex Shipbuildig Museum!

We have big plans coming up for the museum and so we will be doing work on the store this winter and restocking in the spring. So to get rid of inventory, over the next three weekends we will be having a special Holiday Sale at the Museum’s store.

Our Holiday Sale will be running the following days:

December 5 - 4:00 pm - 5:30 pm December 6-7 - 10:00 am - 5:00 pm

December 13-14 - 10:00 am - 5:00 pm

December 20-21 - 10:00 am - 5:00 pm

Amazing deals on favorites such as:

Lewis Story T-shirts Pirate ships, key chains, most books, postcards, hats, and much more on sale!

Member Price: 25% off
Non-member Price: 20% off

Frame Up! T-shirts. Long sleeve adult sizes and short sleeve youth sizes.

Member Price: 40% off
Non-member Price: 40% off

Come buy your holiday gifts or stocking stuffers. Not in a shopping mood? Take a guided tour of the museum, visit the historic shipyard or just stop by and say “Hi!”We’re serving hot cider to warm you and all sorts of home made goodies to satisfy your sweet tooth.

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Dec 04 2008

Documentary Filming at ESM

Published by justindemetri under ships Edit This

A small group of researchers and filmakers arrived at the Essex Shipbuilding Museum yesterday to do get some footage for an up and coming documentary. Andy, Chris and Matt -3 shellfishermen/film makers from Chatham, MA are working on a film about the Lady Washington, a very historically important vessel that may have been built in old Essex (Chebacco) in the 1740’s.

Our records are very limited from that period and the fact that we don’t know what the original name of the vessel was (it could not be Washington), it would be very difficult to verify. However it is pretty certain that the vessel, originally a 90 ton (burden) colonial sloop, was built in a setting like Essex. The guys took some great footage of our basin and creek, which holds our 18th century replica Chebacco boat: Lewis H. Story. Shipwright Harold Burnham, who has taught me quite a lot in a short time, allowed us to visit the Burnham Boatbuilding yard and to film his Pinky schooner Maine.

The vessel had quite a life - a colonial trader typical of her time, she must have had a good turn of speed since she was renamed Washington and became a revolutionary privateer. Later she was renamed Lady Washington and became the tender vessel for the Columbia Rediviva - the first American vessel to round Cape Horn and explore the Columbia river. Later re-rigged as a brig, which would probably make her easier to sail, she became the first American vessel to visit Hawaii, Japan and Hong Kong.

Her life ended I believe sometime in the 1820’s in the Phillipines after hitting a river bar and breaking up -quite a long life for a wooden vessel.

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Nov 20 2008

Sail Training International Video

Published by justindemetri under ships Edit This

Sail Training International is looking for the next generation of sailors and has produced a pretty cool video to help. If you are young, healthy and have a love for the sea this could be the experience of a lifetime. I’ve never done it and with a bad hip, that ship has figuratively sailed. But I do know a few people that have done a season or two on a tall ship an it is tons of fun. 

 A couple of my friends did Carribean runs when they were teenagers on the schooners Harvey Gamage and Roseway and came back to Lanesville with tales of legendary parties. Oh and they learned a thing or two about sailing as well…

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Nov 14 2008

Just Waiting and Waiting

Published by justindemetri under trips Edit This

With the shipbuilding museum getting into winter mode, I find myself with a lot of free time that I am trying to fill up with writing. Problem is I don’t exactly want to spend all this time focusing on my book idea - it is very tedious and so I try to get as much done as possible during those times of “inspiration”. As many of you probably know - writing isn’t something you can fake, you have to be in the zone. You can judge from this rambling post, that I’m not in the zone this morning.

Besides, the trip to Amsterdam is getting closer and I am still doing research on where to go, eat, visit etc.. I’m pretty much exhausted information on the city and I am going a bit overboard, it’s not like I haven’t been there before. However now that I’m in my 30’s I feel like I am old enough to do many of the things I was too young/poor/immature to do on my previous visits.

I recall walking past a warm cozy Dutch restaurant on a cold day in February of 1996 and thinking it looks so nice and comfy in there (gezellig) but I was with a group of teenagers and as a group we would rather spend what little money we had in coffeeshops or bars. That is exactly what we did. The other day I was thinking that “huh, I’m an adult now - I can finally try out these sit-down restaurants where people other than stoned tourists eat.

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Nov 07 2008

The Return of the Old Lady

Published by justindemetri under ships Edit This

 A piece that’s been on the hard drive a little too long…

That hot and humid day in August started like just about every other day that summer when I was twelve. It was mid morning and all that my cousin and I had on our minds was fishing. The mackerel were everywhere and we planned a day’s worth of jigging from one of Gloucester‘s wharves. We called ourselves the Hook, Line and Sinker Fish Company and along with a few of our other friends, we made some good spending money selling our catch for bait or to the old Italian fishermen who would grill them for dinner. However, that day in August it was just the two of us and we decided to try a new location at the State Fish Pier, a decent walk for a couple of twelve year olds from my house down the Fort. That one small decision would end up affecting my life much more than the bucket of mackerel we caught that day.

I cannot recall the exact time of day, but our fishing was halted as an impressive sight unfolded before us: a flotilla of police, fire and Coast Guard boats escorting a beautiful two-masted schooner painted a yachtsman’s white under full sail. The scene unfolded before us slowly, the great canvas mainsail, one of the largest in North America was at eye level due to the low-tide and so close I felt I could touch it. The tall ship was the schooner Adventure, the last of what in sailing circles is known as a “knockabout”, a schooner without a bowsprit. Known to her crew as the Old Lady, she was coming home at last, a gift from her last captain to the city that was once the world’s greatest fishing port, thanks to vessels such as this one. My sheer fascination was in direct contrast to my cousin’s disinterest, so while he continued to fish for mackerel I hauled in my line and made my way toward the most famous of the Gloucester fishing schooners.

Although my family had fished for generations, this was no steel dragger or even my grandfather’s old wooden side trawler, the Adventure was a link to Gloucester’s golden age. A time of “iron men and wooden ships”, when two men would row away from the relative safety of such a grand vessel in tiny wooden dories to haul codfish, haddock and massive halibut all by hand line. Many of these men would never return and so Gloucester’s thriving fishing industry was tempered by the harsh price the sea demands for such successes. The Adventure in her heyday was the last of her kind in both form and function; the last knockabout style schooner as well as the last to fish using dories and handlines. Even though her competitors, which included my family used nets to scoop thousands of pound of fish at a time, the Adventure, with her aging crew of dorymen out fished them all using their hands and hundreds of hooks.

Although I was only twelve, this sense of history was not lost on me as I first stepped onto her linseed-oiled deck and smelled that smell that only used and abused old boats have. It was on Adventure’s deck that I first met the author Joseph E. Garland, Gloucester’s historian and a man that would mentor me for years to come and encourage me to pursue my dreams. I was also lucky enough to meet Captain Leo Hynes, quite possibly the greatest fishermen of all time, a real Highliner that spent more time at sea than on shore in his life. That first visit to the Old Lady would lead to many others and before long, I was helping with her restoration. My first act in restoring Adventure happened the next day when I donated a few dollars of my mackerel money to become one of the original members of the non-profit organization, Gloucester Adventure.

Looking back on those times on board Adventure and the people I met makes me realize just how much it helped mold the person I have become. It was through Joe Garland and our long conversations onboard the Old Lady that I learned to appreciate my own Sicilian heritage and the importance of keeping traditions alive. Captain Leo reminded me never to forget how hard the fishermen in my family worked so that I could get an education instead of going out to sea. Of course there were many more people involved with the Adventure in those early days that positively impacted my life, but just being on the vessel gave me a charge and a sense of pride in my hometown that most twelve year olds never experience. When I think back, it still amazes that the simple act of going fishing one hot summer day led me down the path I now tread. In all the days of that I have gone fishing since, never have I seen such a catch.

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Nov 05 2008

Joe Garland’s Unknown Soldiers

Published by justindemetri under ships Edit This

Gloucester historian, writer, and my friend and mentor Joe Garland has just unveiled his latest and perhaps greatest work. Unknown Soldiers was a project that Joe had planned to do for quite some time, a chronicle of his experiences in World War II as well as his buddies -both the survivors and those that did not make it. Anyone that knows Joe understands how monumental this undertaking was, scouring memories long forgotten, relegated to his war-time journal or buried down deep in subconciousness. The fact that is took so long for Joe to write all this down is no surprise and it one of the messages of this book: Each generation that goes to war has to learn these lessons fresh - because rarely if ever are the veterans of the past able to bring themselves to tell of the horrors they’ve seen. And so we trudge on through the muck and blood of history….

The book is on sale now and it also has a website that has excellent images from the book as well as excerpts read by both Joe Garland and his old army buddies. Some of these guys are gone now - thank god Joe got it all on tape!

If you are in the Gloucester area on November 18 @ 7pm, Joe will be reading from Unknown Soldiers at The Bookstore on Main Street.

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Nov 03 2008

Preparations For The Trip

Published by justindemetri under trips Edit This

With plane tickets and apartment all set to go, there is not much more to get ready except to upgrade our winter gear. I was heartbroken when my trusty daypack of over 10 years had succumed to mold. And so a replacement is on the list of needed gear besides a new waterproof winter jacket, winter boots, and some long underwear.

Amsterdam is not any colder than Gloucester during winter, but that cold wind goes right through you. Besides with with an 8am sunrise and a 5:30 sunset, there is not much the sun can do to warm up this city of stone and water.

One of my favorite memories of my first trip to Holland was the early morning walks downtown. Amazing how quiet the city is at around 7 am in February.

Besides the gear the rest of the planning involves just how many daytrips we want to take and how many restaurants I want to splurge in. I’ve pretty much decided that the IAmsterdam card is not worth the money after reading the posts in the many Amsterdam forums out there. Although if this was my first time in the city and I only had a few days (in warmer weather) then I can see it being pretty convenient. But you have to keep yourself busy in order for the card to be a real money saver.

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